my $10,000 challenge with 61 Panel
Moderators: warb, Rawdyn, Leroy, byronbus, Tonz Magonz, dmb
- FrankenCab
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You can pretty much determine that all brakes flex hoses m/cyl are shot so order all this stuff along with rust repair sections so you can make noise during the day and at night clean and prep brakes wheel bearings and headlights glass seat frames , workout if you want to lower it or keep it stock height , rebuild king /link pins if you do this may aswell flip spindles , are you going to make it a tryhard bay by irs or stock reduction hubs or straight axle .
Lots of things but all good fun when you get little bits done and it comes back together good luck and... plenty of pics
Lots of things but all good fun when you get little bits done and it comes back together good luck and... plenty of pics
- joeM
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- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:22 pm
- Location: Melbourne Vic
I gave the cabin and back a clean out.
I'm happy with the condition of the front floor, less rust than anticipated.
In the back I removed the funky wooden step. I wondered what it was used for, once I removed it, it was obvious, to hide the plaster repair job.
At least I think its plaster
I'm happy with the condition of the front floor, less rust than anticipated.
In the back I removed the funky wooden step. I wondered what it was used for, once I removed it, it was obvious, to hide the plaster repair job.
At least I think its plaster
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- DSC01490.JPG (87.16 KiB) Viewed 6467 times
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- insideBack01.jpg (53.31 KiB) Viewed 6471 times
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- insideBack02.jpg (80.57 KiB) Viewed 6471 times
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- DSKer
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- joeM
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- Location: Melbourne Vic
The Front end
$200 gone today, I had to buy two decent jack stands and some degreaser, grease, tools,including 2 big assed 32mm spanners to get the front wheel off.
I learnt today that the speedo cable sits through the left front wheel and that you need to remove a small clip to get the hub off (Tricky when you cant see it from the gunk buildup)
Confused
I successfully removed the drum and when I was looking at the front end I was a little perplexed in working out how the suspension worked, No springs and no shock absorbers?? what the?
I compared with the right and then realized that the left had a missing shock absorber, but more importantly the top bolt appears to have snapped off
Does anyone know if this can be repaired and how?
Wheel cylinders
I rang importedautoparts.com.au about a new master cylinder and wheel cylinders and found out that the wheel cylinders are over $100 each for this model. It was suggested that with a 64 - 67 backing plate I can get wheel cylinders for around $30 to work.
I want to give the front end a clean and paint and was wondering if the best plan is to remove the front end to do it or leave it in.
Can anyone suggest a plan of attack?
I learnt today that the speedo cable sits through the left front wheel and that you need to remove a small clip to get the hub off (Tricky when you cant see it from the gunk buildup)
Confused
I successfully removed the drum and when I was looking at the front end I was a little perplexed in working out how the suspension worked, No springs and no shock absorbers?? what the?
I compared with the right and then realized that the left had a missing shock absorber, but more importantly the top bolt appears to have snapped off
Does anyone know if this can be repaired and how?
Wheel cylinders
I rang importedautoparts.com.au about a new master cylinder and wheel cylinders and found out that the wheel cylinders are over $100 each for this model. It was suggested that with a 64 - 67 backing plate I can get wheel cylinders for around $30 to work.
I want to give the front end a clean and paint and was wondering if the best plan is to remove the front end to do it or leave it in.
Can anyone suggest a plan of attack?
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- frontEnd.jpg (91.69 KiB) Viewed 6418 times
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- wheel-cylinder.jpg (88.34 KiB) Viewed 6418 times
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- brokenStud.jpg (65.11 KiB) Viewed 6418 times
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- DSKer
- Posts: 202
- Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 3:11 am
- Location: Kold Kanada!
Removing the beam can be a chore. You have to remove the shift rod and that coupler is a beast! IF the coupler/shift rod comes off easily (it won't), then pull the beam. If it doesn't, I would leave the beam alone for another day. The only thing you will gain is a) cleaner beam b) easier access to fix the broken shock bolt.
I personally would leave it and drill out the shock bolt as it is.
That's cool you figured out the left nut is clockwise to loosen (Only reverse thread bolt on the whole bus!)
As for the early wheel cylinders, that's really expensive over there! They are only $35 each here (not German) x 4 = $140ish, not $400!! I can't advise about switching to the newer parts as I usually just get disc brakes or keep what's stock For that much money you're half way to discs!
Anyways the best thing about busses is you have so many options and in the end, they are all your choices! The choices you make will make the bus uniquely yours. (But I'm glad you're gonna get it on the road first!).
PS You will have to find ALL of the zerk fittings that is buried in the gunk and start loading them up with a LOT of grease. Tons. You have to basically force the old grease out and push in the new (I love this part!).
I personally would leave it and drill out the shock bolt as it is.
That's cool you figured out the left nut is clockwise to loosen (Only reverse thread bolt on the whole bus!)
As for the early wheel cylinders, that's really expensive over there! They are only $35 each here (not German) x 4 = $140ish, not $400!! I can't advise about switching to the newer parts as I usually just get disc brakes or keep what's stock For that much money you're half way to discs!
Anyways the best thing about busses is you have so many options and in the end, they are all your choices! The choices you make will make the bus uniquely yours. (But I'm glad you're gonna get it on the road first!).
PS You will have to find ALL of the zerk fittings that is buried in the gunk and start loading them up with a LOT of grease. Tons. You have to basically force the old grease out and push in the new (I love this part!).
Last edited by dawerks on Mon Apr 11, 2011 3:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- warb
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moving along there nicely.. love thhat box, maybe need to put that back!.. haha.. you can drill and tap out that bolt.. IF it where me id take the beam right out and rebuild, however youll need to also remove the gear select shaft.. that way to can also weld in some adjusters to get her down a smidge ... heck, swap it over for a narrowed beam while your there.. you'll smoke that budget pretty quick tho!
- martinigreenbus
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- 4tune8
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get ya parts here...https://www2.cip1.com/searchresults.asp ... =20&page=3
have a squiz around for other stuff you'll need too
have a squiz around for other stuff you'll need too
- scotty*85vw
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- DSKer
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- Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:05 pm
- Location: Tasmania
If you really want to leave your undies on you could try getting a mate to hit them with the Gerni whilst you bend over. I couldn't find any pictures.martinigreenbus wrote:If you really want to clean it, you already know the answer Joe.
It's much easier to clean up a pair of skidded up undies if you take them off first.
Keep up the reports and pictures, they are great.
Regarding your $10,000 budget, you are not allowed to include tools in that. So you haven't spent all that much now have you.
- joeM
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- wohoo
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Love this post, the drive is second to none, just 3 words Joe, 'dont give up' many do.
They laugh because You are different, You laugh because They are all the same.
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Need Towing in Tassie, See www.tigertowing.com.au or call 0400 16 14 12
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Need Towing in Tassie, See www.tigertowing.com.au or call 0400 16 14 12
- GFresh
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I knew this one would get a green sticker, I think its the budget idea that will drive it's popularity, good one Andywohoo wrote:Love this post, the drive is second to none, just 3 words Joe, 'dont give up' many do.
Do your homework Joe or you'll pop your budget early mate
- joeM
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