'62 Panel....the bush busser - further progress

kombi1976 · Post by **kombi1976** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 10:36 pm

I'll do better than that......I'll take some pics tomorrow and post them.

martinigreenbus · Post by **martinigreenbus** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 7:37 am

kombi1976 wrote:
byronmcmanus59 wrote:That looks scary andy,
Why?
Cause I got medieval on its ass?!

Your using the grinder upside down, if it kicks, it's coming for your temple, I guess thats what BMc59 meant.

kombi1976 · Post by **kombi1976** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 10:27 am

Ahhh, well there is that.
But then most of you know the old truce I had with tools......if I didn't touch them they wouldn't break anything or hurt me.
Now that hostilities are open again it's just a matter of time before the tools take a pre-emptive strike.

undercircuit · Post by **undercircuit** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 10:48 am

Looking good Andy...

D-Train · Post by **D-Train** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 6:32 pm

looks killer andy, cant wait to see this on the road, an no the hump seats arnt worth shit, ill take them off ur hands.

FrankenCab · Post by **FrankenCab** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 7:35 pm

good going andy

byronmcmanus59 · Post by **byronmcmanus59** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 10:40 pm

martinigreenbus wrote:
kombi1976 wrote:
byronmcmanus59 wrote:That looks scary andy,
Why?
Cause I got medieval on its ass?!
Your using the grinder upside down, if it kicks, it's coming for your temple, I guess thats what BMc59 meant.

Haha your onto it brent.. those sparks are going the wrong way or your standing on the wrong side

kombi1976 · Post by **kombi1976** » Thu Mar 24, 2011 10:54 pm

Penguin wrote:Can you tell where the back was grafted on?

Kinda.....here are the promised pics.
The weld across the engine shelf:

Here is where the weld joins the rear pillar/corner.

It then is welded up the seam where the corner is normally fitted:

Here's the same seam on the passenger side:

The welds are also in alongside the a battery tray, here on the passenger side:

And on the driver's side....even still has the battery bracket!

Here's a closer look at the weld near the door catch....

And with it shut:

kombi1976 · Post by **kombi1976** » Sun Apr 03, 2011 4:35 pm

Yesterday, after asking a few questions in another thread I finally had a proper attempt at removing the rear drums to replace the wheels cylinders. I've said it before and I'll say it again.....I'd dumb and newbie so every bit of mechanical progress by me is a considerable achievement.
A couple of days back I started by getting some Kitten car polish for older cars and taking a crack at the dash which is in decent condition.
It came up a treat:

After finding out that neither of the back axles had a reverse thread on the nut and grabbed my breaker bar, 36mm socket and 2m length of pipe to get them moving.
It worked a charm after I chocked the front wheels.
Then I took to the drums with a good rubber mallet and they came off with relative ease.......no puller needed!

The removed drums and wheels:

The bare rhs brake assembly:

And the bare lhs brake assembly:

Today I pulled apart the lhs and put a new cylinder on after cleaning it up a bit.

I was going to assemble it again but getting those springs back on is the real bitch.
Any tips?

splitbus · Post by **splitbus** » Sun Apr 03, 2011 4:45 pm

Bit of nylon rope Andy, great work mate, that dash looks sweat

matara · Post by **matara** » Sun Apr 03, 2011 6:39 pm

Andy,

Whilst its all apart are you going to change the axle seals and check the bearings? Last thing you need is gearbox oil contaminating your freshly new or relined brakes since when you get oil on them they are useless and need to be replaced or relined.

I would be tourquing up all the reduction bolts too, and making sure those adjusters are pulled out and wire brushed and greased with anti-sieze. Adjusting with frozen adjusters is no fun.

Cheers

Steve

warb · Post by **warb** » Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:47 pm

go hard andy boy.. looks good

scotty*85vw · Post by **scotty*85vw** » Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:59 pm

id second that mate, while its half apart for the sake of 20 in parts for hours of time later, and even more in the long run if you have to do the pads again.

and iv always found the easyest way is to put all the pads and springs together on the floor....then put them up and put the cylender end in first (even if you have the drums machined and dont go for oversized pads still wind the stars both down all the way and adjust when together) then use a strong arm to push one side in at a time

kombi1976 · Post by **kombi1976** » Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:51 pm

Steve, sounds like a good idea.
I have to drain the RGBs and the gearbox anyway so I may as well go to town on the bearings and seals.

GFresh · Post by **GFresh** » Mon Apr 04, 2011 2:49 pm

Great to see some progress on this one Andy

such a good solid bus, get your hands dirty pal all the way to your arm pits heaps of advice here as you know on the DSK Brains Trust