my $10,000 challenge with 61 Panel
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- joeM
- DSKer
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:22 pm
- Location: Melbourne Vic
my $10,000 challenge with 61 Panel
From the guy that brought you "I got sick or something and woke up buying a kombi" Comes
THE $10.000 CHALLENGE!
Yes thats all I could convince the family with to start my crazy adventure.
They still think I;m going through mid life crisis.
So step one
Buy a Kombi
I spotted one on ebay and managed to get it for $3,650 delivered
THE $10.000 CHALLENGE!
Yes thats all I could convince the family with to start my crazy adventure.
They still think I;m going through mid life crisis.
So step one
Buy a Kombi
I spotted one on ebay and managed to get it for $3,650 delivered
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Last edited by joeM on Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
- joeM
- DSKer
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:22 pm
- Location: Melbourne Vic
Where to start
I bought it from a very nice guy Rick from VolksRecycle.
I asked so where do you suggest I start?
He suggested a bug bomb
So one went inside and another underneath.
Problem
The drivers door wont open, someone previously tried a crow bar to open it without success (good to know its hard to force your way in)
I'm trying to remove the Masonite door trimming without breaking it so I can use it as a template but cant work out how the inner door handle comes off.
Does anyone have any ideas??
I would post pics but for some reason can't
I asked so where do you suggest I start?
He suggested a bug bomb
So one went inside and another underneath.
Problem
The drivers door wont open, someone previously tried a crow bar to open it without success (good to know its hard to force your way in)
I'm trying to remove the Masonite door trimming without breaking it so I can use it as a template but cant work out how the inner door handle comes off.
Does anyone have any ideas??
I would post pics but for some reason can't
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Last edited by joeM on Sun Apr 10, 2011 1:21 am, edited 2 times in total.
- smifff
- DSKer
- Posts: 395
- Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2010 10:06 pm
- Location: Woongarrah, Central Coast
I think they're the same as early beetles. If so.. you need a hammer and a fine, long punch to get the handle off. Even a long slim nail will do.
Push back the white surround and you'll see a pin through the handle.
Carefully tap it out and put it somewhere safe for reinstalling.
Then just wiggle the handle and it slides off it's spine.
I'm on 0414186963 if you get stuck.
Push back the white surround and you'll see a pin through the handle.
Carefully tap it out and put it somewhere safe for reinstalling.
Then just wiggle the handle and it slides off it's spine.
I'm on 0414186963 if you get stuck.
Dreaming of split kombis.
Daisy our '61 11 window (under construction)
Edna our '74 Camper
Daisy our '61 11 window (under construction)
Edna our '74 Camper
- scotty*85vw
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- Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2010 9:34 pm
- GFresh
- DSKer
- Posts: 1104
- Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:12 pm
- Location: Geelong Australia
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Congrats on the bus and welcome to DSK mate
I had the same drama with my door also
Once you get the door card off spray shed loads of wd40 or similar down onto the catch mechanism and let it bite in for a bit then try and see if you can manually release it from inside with a screw driver or some such
Over the time it's been sitting the gunk that's stuck to the latch gets hard and locks it in the closed position
Once it's open pull all the door lock assembly out and clean thoroughly and free up
If there are signs of heavy wear then best to replace it with a good s/h or new one
And keep the pics coming of the progress
Cheers, George
I had the same drama with my door also
Once you get the door card off spray shed loads of wd40 or similar down onto the catch mechanism and let it bite in for a bit then try and see if you can manually release it from inside with a screw driver or some such
Over the time it's been sitting the gunk that's stuck to the latch gets hard and locks it in the closed position
Once it's open pull all the door lock assembly out and clean thoroughly and free up
If there are signs of heavy wear then best to replace it with a good s/h or new one
And keep the pics coming of the progress
Cheers, George
- joeM
- DSKer
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:22 pm
- Location: Melbourne Vic
Thanks for the suggestions everyone, first thing tomorrow I'll give this a go.
This is what I'm up against
Without a doubt original tail light have to go back in George
This is what I'm up against
Without a doubt original tail light have to go back in George
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Last edited by joeM on Sun Apr 10, 2011 1:15 am, edited 2 times in total.
- joeM
- DSKer
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:22 pm
- Location: Melbourne Vic
Had to spend $850 on tools and stuff.
Thats $4500 gone
I have to be very efficient from now on.
I worked out my image upload problem, have to keep em, under 100KB
Thats $4500 gone
I have to be very efficient from now on.
I worked out my image upload problem, have to keep em, under 100KB
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- DSKer
- Posts: 202
- Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 3:11 am
- Location: Kold Kanada!
DO not take things apart unless you are actually working on them! Trust me on this! If you're working on the front left drum, work on only that unless you get hopelessly stuck.
DO not randomly start sanding, grinding etc with no purpose, you will get discouraged and you'll it will be a huge mess!
DO have fun
DO learn lots
I would personally fix the brakes (one wheel at a time, and grease, fix everything one wheel at a time). Then the tranny, engine. And get it running.
The rust is going to be the huge bit but it's manageable if you get the bus running/driving/stopping then it doesn't seem as daunting.
In any case, you can make it for 10K!! We will be your support group!
Also, if you get it running/driving, the part you look at is most the dash/windshield, the rust/ugly paint etc will be veery easy to bear! If it's NOT running, you'll be looking at the ugly side most of time, very hard to bear!
DO not randomly start sanding, grinding etc with no purpose, you will get discouraged and you'll it will be a huge mess!
DO have fun
DO learn lots
I would personally fix the brakes (one wheel at a time, and grease, fix everything one wheel at a time). Then the tranny, engine. And get it running.
The rust is going to be the huge bit but it's manageable if you get the bus running/driving/stopping then it doesn't seem as daunting.
In any case, you can make it for 10K!! We will be your support group!
Also, if you get it running/driving, the part you look at is most the dash/windshield, the rust/ugly paint etc will be veery easy to bear! If it's NOT running, you'll be looking at the ugly side most of time, very hard to bear!
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- DSKer
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- Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 3:11 am
- Location: Kold Kanada!
- joeM
- DSKer
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:22 pm
- Location: Melbourne Vic
You guys are GREAT! Thanks for the advise, keep it coming, I really appreciate it.
I was going to disassemble every panel but I like the idea of getting it running first.
I'm lucky in that my friend is lending me some jack stands and a mig welder, I have an air compressor so I hope I can get away with the tools I have.
She doesn't have and engine, any suggestions with what should go in?
I was going to disassemble every panel but I like the idea of getting it running first.
I'm lucky in that my friend is lending me some jack stands and a mig welder, I have an air compressor so I hope I can get away with the tools I have.
She doesn't have and engine, any suggestions with what should go in?
- joeM
- DSKer
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:22 pm
- Location: Melbourne Vic
Smifff your a champ
Success!! got the drivers door to open for the first time in probably 20 years.
It was just as Smifff said it was.
Thanks mate
It was just as Smifff said it was.
Thanks mate
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- Ian 68
- DSKer
- Posts: 1373
- Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 9:58 pm
- Location: Caloundra, QLD
Nice one.
Be sure to keep all the parts, bag and label as you go if necessary...pics are also a good idea, so easy these days with camera phones etc.
As for the engine, how about a 1600 twin port, should be able to get one fairly reasonable and stay well within budgets.
You will get lots and lots of good help from this site, some good people on here that will help and advise along the way.
Nice score on the bus as well, have fun along the way.
Best
Ian
Be sure to keep all the parts, bag and label as you go if necessary...pics are also a good idea, so easy these days with camera phones etc.
As for the engine, how about a 1600 twin port, should be able to get one fairly reasonable and stay well within budgets.
You will get lots and lots of good help from this site, some good people on here that will help and advise along the way.
Nice score on the bus as well, have fun along the way.
Best
Ian
Proudly sponsored by Cunado wear.
- GFresh
- DSKer
- Posts: 1104
- Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:12 pm
- Location: Geelong Australia
- Contact:
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I think Dewerks has a valid point, if you haven't tackled a task of this level before you will become discouraged without a plan,
May I also suggest that if you are going to work to a budget that the first thing you should do is devise a plan of attack
Firstly list the outcome you are after
re:
Registered or Trailer Queen?
rat or shiny?
And
Stock or modified?
These items will have a huge impact on cost difference
Then with the outcome decided breakdown each system on the vehicle and make a list of parts required (a best guess will do initially) eg. Suspension, steering, Brake system, engine, transmission, electrical, body panels, body trims and accessories, interior, etc.
As you would expect it to be broken down in the workshop manual.
As you work through your itemized list then do your research and get all the parts lists quoted, this will give you your parts cost.
From there you can decide if some of those items can be removed if you go over your budget.
If you decide on the bus getting reg then my advice would be to do rust repairs first mainly due to the bus having a higher resale price if you (or the misses) need it sold, if you just want to have some fun first yes get it going and stopping.
But as Dewerks and Ian have said, don't strip it to bits or you may lose interest when it all looks to daunting.
Perfect planning prevents piss poor performance
George
May I also suggest that if you are going to work to a budget that the first thing you should do is devise a plan of attack
Firstly list the outcome you are after
re:
Registered or Trailer Queen?
rat or shiny?
And
Stock or modified?
These items will have a huge impact on cost difference
Then with the outcome decided breakdown each system on the vehicle and make a list of parts required (a best guess will do initially) eg. Suspension, steering, Brake system, engine, transmission, electrical, body panels, body trims and accessories, interior, etc.
As you would expect it to be broken down in the workshop manual.
As you work through your itemized list then do your research and get all the parts lists quoted, this will give you your parts cost.
From there you can decide if some of those items can be removed if you go over your budget.
If you decide on the bus getting reg then my advice would be to do rust repairs first mainly due to the bus having a higher resale price if you (or the misses) need it sold, if you just want to have some fun first yes get it going and stopping.
But as Dewerks and Ian have said, don't strip it to bits or you may lose interest when it all looks to daunting.
Perfect planning prevents piss poor performance
George