can you chock the chassis so it cant move? Then Id try a block and tackle through the rear hatch and slow pressure from an anchor (garage post etc) put a 4x2 behind the hook on the tackle so you only pull to straight. Or if it seems pretty flexy then maybe youll get a gentle of enough of an angle with a tackle down to your torsion housing while your floor is out.
March 58 Euro 23.
April 59 Mango
Wanted:
59 crank handle (tick!)
cargo door outer handle 59
two perfect rear floor mats (pretty pretty please!!!)
Got down to the shed at the weekend and managed to get the inner valance and a-pillars replaced. Had a mate over who is a handy with the welder to help me out. Very happy with the results.
First nervous cuts
Starting to expose the cancer
Had to go through the cab floor to get at the welds on top of the chassis
Finally got everything out. It was a real bitch getting through those huge plug welds. Cracked out the 9in welder to get the down flush
Replacing the a-pillars was not as bad as I thought with the new inner valance and bracket providing a good reference point.
The end result
Then I went and finished removing the cab floor. I lost count of the spot welds...
Some slow progress on the old girl. I've only had a few days in the shed over the last several months.
The front valance was a right pain. I ordered the valance marked for a 57 with oval holes, but the support rail for nose was nowhere near close. Had to drill all the spot welds and relocate it. It also took quite a bit of stretching to reach the full width.
I don't have a finished photo of the front yet. Then it was onto the passenger dogleg and b-pillar.
Used screws to keep the inner dogleg located. I haven't welded in the bottom corner on the b-pillar until I get the outer located right.
I forgot to take intermediate pics on the b-pillar. It was a bit of a jigsaw to get all the pieces in place and welding everything in the right order.
