55 singlecab

pmgbus · Post by **pmgbus** » Wed Jul 25, 2007 11:36 pm

how the hell do you get rusty bolts out without heat?ie without damaging the paint. will put pics up on weekend in daylight.

vsleepy · Post by **vsleepy** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 12:44 am

cold chisel...

Tonz Magonz · Post by **Tonz Magonz** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:43 am

Air powered rattle gun..Use forward and reverse rotation alternatively.Sometimes can be enough to loosen the rust which has clogged the threads.

euro · Post by **euro** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 6:20 pm

try the new loctite ' freeze and release'

http://www.ferret.com.au/articles/z1/view.asp?id=37736

'The product

Tonz Magonz · Post by **Tonz Magonz** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 6:23 pm

Andrew, Maybe we could do a bulk buy of the Loctite stuff.I think we could all use a can of this at some stage or another.

lobus · Post by **lobus** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 6:32 pm

I use the old wd40 application and wait a while system. If you can get the thread facing down gravity will help. I have squirted the rusty areas a few times over weeks, but eventually it freed up the rusty areas. I don't think it harms the paint either. Just takes ages.

winerot · Post by **winerot** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 6:56 pm

use the wd40 or similar let it soak & as tony said dont just try to loosen
but first try to nip up a touch then loosen, back & forward back & forward
while keeping up with liquid thats how i used to loosen massive nuts on
railcars that carry fuel, for obvious reasons heating is a no no !BANG

choppa · Post by **choppa** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:05 pm

pmgbus wrote:how the hell do you get rusty bolts out without heat?ie without damaging the paint. will put pics up on weekend in daylight.

Grind the head or whats left of the shank for a good arc and mig weld a big hot blob on it (like many spot welds on top of each other). The bolt will get red hot, but alot of the heat wont go through the rust to the nut and it turns the rust to dust. then lube and slowly back and forth as mentioned winerot.

pmgbus · Post by **pmgbus** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:11 pm

being a techy, ive tried all of the soak and whack, and leave and soak and etc, but that freeze and release sounds great, might even try it on the missus when she gets a bit stiff and cranky!

Volksaddict · Post by **Volksaddict** » Sun Jul 29, 2007 8:48 pm

Wurths also make one that works well ...called Rost-Off......Nice find Andrew ...keep the pics coming

Kombi Trip · Post by **Kombi Trip** » Sun Jul 29, 2007 9:27 pm

choppa wrote:
pmgbus wrote: then lube and slowly back and forth as mentioned winerot.

This may be the better option on the bride mate!

johnny no fingers · Post by **johnny no fingers** » Sun Jul 29, 2007 11:39 pm

This is the best rust penetrant I've come across.

Tonz Magonz · Post by **Tonz Magonz** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 10:01 am

Looks like they put the instructions on the front of the can for a change...!! Where do we buy some of this Johnny..?
Tony

johnny no fingers · Post by **johnny no fingers** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 3:03 pm

This stuff can not be bought in the shop, I can get a carton of 12 for $ 21.0 for 1 can. Sounds dear, but you use it in really small quantity to do the job. Can lasts me about 6 months...If more of you would be interested , I can organise it. V Force Richard would not use anything else.

pmgbus · Post by **pmgbus** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 9:26 pm

waiting for a can of the loctite freeze lube, in the meantime, cut out the dirt(no metal left) front nose lower , inner and outer sills, jacking points crossmembers and outriggers. forgot how much of a shitty job that was!

Question. sandblast or not? im thinking of blasting just the underside of the ute, not outside , not engbay, just so i have nice clean metal, and after repairs have been done, the bus is solid underneath. - after opinions / options. the underside is typical split, surface rust etc.

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