Ratty Split Mission.....Custom Interior

[splitbus]

Cool stuff , can you still get some kind of mod valance in, ( is there room )

[GFresh]

Cool stuff , can you still get some kind of mod valance in, ( is there room )

The tinware on the sides had to be trimmed back to clear, this is where the heater box inlets came down the sides, re routing the pipes will be an easy mod to fix, the way it sits at the moment the filler pipe fowls on the eng door but with a little heat and bending back will clear, I think if I fab up valance that doubles as the rear tin this will sort out the heat rising from the exhaust, I may make end up making a custom exhaust that steers away from the fan intake all together but that's a little way off yet.

As for the rear engine support, I plan to make a bracket and rail support set up for the chassis that double as bumper brackets (all bolt in no body mods), the mount bar and bumper brackets almost line up spot on, I want to do this as the engine ways a fair bit more and also has a larger leverage factor due to it's large bottom after also taking out a bit of meat from the gearbox case having this additional support at the rear will reduce some of the stress to the gearbox case.

To add to this I will look at setting up a cool air feed to the engine if I choose to stay with the std. cooling system.

[FrankenCab]

why not get the upright conversion for the type 4 or mod the tinware yourself ?, saves having to cut up valance and holes in decklid for air

[GFresh]

why not get the upright conversion for the type 4 or mod the tinware yourself ?, saves having to cut up valance and holes in decklid for air

I have seen some very nice upright conversion hardware out there already and good looking products too, I won't be cutting any of the body panels to get this engine in but I will look at fabricating up a new valance from scratch to suit and getting some more air down to the cooling fan by means of additional fans or some such

Any ideas will be appreciated as I haven't done a conversion like this one before, so keep them coming

Here's a good link to some upright conversion pics on the samba

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_ ... t_dir=DESC

[GFresh]

Continued with the front end mods today

Almost finished now, after setting it all up with the new larger tierod ends recut to come up from undernieth and with a massive drop in the front aswell as it being narrowed, the steering links had to be shortened, the left side which is the original tube had 60mm taken off and the rh side which is one sourced from a late bay window had 40mm taken of it, after cutting this additional tube off the side with the rh thread both tubes were retapped with a 14mm x 1.5 tap.

You may notice from the pics I've added that the links now angle upward instead of down as they used to at stock height, still heaps of gap between the link and the chassis.

[Tonz Magonz]

Looking good "G"

Don't forget to check tie rod to chassis clearance when wheels are back on and bus sitting on the ground...hope I'm not stating the obvious..

Will try and find some pics of the type 4 upright kit I have in my '67 11 window. ( Sharpbuilt style from memory )

[kombiing]

nucking futs

[Split Rat]

Gfresh, luv your work on this bus.
But just backing up a bit on this build, I am about to do a narrow beam as you have done, 2".
One question I have though, you have pushed the outer beam bushing in to the new narrowed position, but does it matter that one inch in, the inside diameter of the beam seams to get less. There seems to be a slight step at about the same place you have cut your beam. Does this make a difference the bushing?

Cheers Greg.

[GFresh]

Gfresh, luv your work on this bus.
But just backing up a bit on this build, I am about to do a narrow beam as you have done, 2".
One question I have though, you have pushed the outer beam bushing in to the new narrowed position, but does it matter that one inch in, the inside diameter of the beam seams to get less. There seems to be a slight step at about the same place you have cut your beam. Does this make a difference the bushing?

Cheers Greg.

Hey Greg, both the inner and outer bushes were pushed in the same amount, not sure about the step in the tube as my front end was the same diameter, at the time of assembly the outer bush was slightly tighter which may have been caused from a small amount of shrinkage after welding the tube to the pressed frame, this was over come by a little tickle with a flapper wheel.

My recomendation is to remove the bushes first using a tool similar to the one I made up for the inner bushing, this can addapt to a slide hammer pretty easily, and leave a small amount of tube protuding out from the frame don't cut it all off level, as this will make the welding side a lot easier, the tube is thicker than the pressed frame so make sure you lay the heat of the weld primarily to the tube, this will avoid blowing holes in the frame.

If you're installing beam adjusters make sure you knock out the bushes and also take out the centre locator, then ensure the centre piece and the tube are cleaned up enough to spin with minimum resistance, if left tight they can be a pain to adjust.

Hope this info helps

Cheers mate, GFresh

Take you time as you only want to do the mod once,

[GFresh]

Finally got back to the ol girl today after 3 massive weekends of parties urgh....

set up the rear brakes and supension, wasn't sure how much it would drop with the donk in now so thought I'd start at the bottom somwhere, low and behold, I don't think it will go any lower, the tyres are on the inner guards, the heater boxes are about 1 inch of the deck, best thing is you can always go up.

Just need to bleed the brakes, make some suspension adjustments, oil, fuel and a battery and kick her in the GUTS

[Leroy]

That looks nuts!!! Love it

[Split Rat]

Gfresh, luv your work on this bus.
But just backing up a bit on this build, I am about to do a narrow beam as you have done, 2".
One question I have though, you have pushed the outer beam bushing in to the new narrowed position, but does it matter that one inch in, the inside diameter of the beam seams to get less. There seems to be a slight step at about the same place you have cut your beam. Does this make a difference the bushing?

Cheers Greg.

Hey Greg, both the inner and outer bushes were pushed in the same amount, not sure about the step in the tube as my front end was the same diameter, at the time of assembly the outer bush was slightly tighter which may have been caused from a small amount of shrinkage after welding the tube to the pressed frame, this was over come by a little tickle with a flapper wheel.

My recomendation is to remove the bushes first using a tool similar to the one I made up for the inner bushing, this can addapt to a slide hammer pretty easily, and leave a small amount of tube protuding out from the frame don't cut it all off level, as this will make the welding side a lot easier, the tube is thicker than the pressed frame so make sure you lay the heat of the weld primarily to the tube, this will avoid blowing holes in the frame.

If you're installing beam adjusters make sure you knock out the bushes and also take out the centre locator, then ensure the centre piece and the tube are cleaned up enough to spin with minimum resistance, if left tight they can be a pain to adjust.

Hope this info helps

Cheers mate, GFresh

Take you time as you only want to do the mod once,

Thanks for the tip "G"

[GFresh]

Just a few pics from today, I have put some video together, will upload shortly.

She is now running driving and most importantly..........STOPPING

Happy Days

[Leroy]

That looks sooooooo

[GFresh]

Ok all you Peeps,

Got you all avideo to watch

A quick flick of the last 5 or 6 months work

Some of the highlights, and ofcourse........all the LOW points

Thanks for keeping my motivation up, might go and get myself a little bit of sleep now.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZ03DC4JU1o

Enjoy, GFresh