1960 Split Window Resto/Rebuild

[VRSenator065]

Mate that tool is awesome, I need to pop over soon and check out all this progress in person

You are welcome anytime mate!!

[MisterPig]

Where do you get your laser cutting done? Is it online or local? Just wondering because I have heard it is relatively expensive in Australia

[VRSenator065]

Where do you get your laser cutting done? Is it online or local? Just wondering because I have heard it is relatively expensive in Australia

Sonnex is just down the road from me at Elizabeth. I think it's pretty cheap compared to doing it any other way, but I can't compare it to anywhere else price-wise. The plates for the coil-over mounts, also the bearing puller were minimum order of $90.

[VRSenator065]

Another step into the 21st century, we now have front headrests. Actually dead set simple to do. Also finished off the side holes for the restraint bars for the rear seat. I have a couple of weeks off, so aiming to have it back to the painter by the end of these two weeks.

[VRSenator065]

This isn't quite finished but thought I would put it up given its the end of the day. A thing Andrew suggested was to add removable diagonal structs to support the end of the engine chassis doobries. The main thing I wanted was to get the parts welded to the chassis done so I can send it back for paint, but ended up doing most of it. The tongues are welded to the gearbox cross mount which made it a bit easier being able to fully weld on the bench after tacking it in the bus. The square tubes are just dummies at present until the clevis's arrive and I can make up some nice adjustable proper struts. Littel bit of welding left and then some cleanup but getting there.

[MisterPig]

Where do you get your laser cutting done? Is it online or local? Just wondering because I have heard it is relatively expensive in Australia

Sonnex is just down the road from me at Elizabeth. I think it's pretty cheap compared to doing it any other way, but I can't compare it to anywhere else price-wise. The plates for the coil-over mounts, also the bearing puller were minimum order of $90.

Minimum order of $90 is a good deal.
I Like what you have done with the headrests. I was thinking of something similar. I was first going to modify the seats but then...I wasn't sure what the engineer would say about modifying the seats, So i decided I would go the same way you have. Does your engineer have any issues with them?

[VRSenator065]

Minimum order of $90 is a good deal.
I Like what you have done with the headrests. I was thinking of something similar. I was first going to modify the seats but then...I wasn't sure what the engineer would say about modifying the seats, So i decided I would go the same way you have. Does your engineer have any issues with them?

Hi mate, yep the engineer was very happy with that position/solution, I also was originally going to mount it to the seat frame but given how the seat back has to swing up to access the spare etc I was concerned it would mean having to remove the headrests first. This way you don't need to, and I think it turned out pretty neat. Once we add the stained/polished timber dress piece across on top of the bulkhead should be clean as.

[MisterPig]

Hmm, the polished timber top should finish it off just right. I've had a read through your posts, but i haven't seen any mention of your front end/steering. I am putting in a larger motor and hence will need to upgrade things to be able to get it engineered. The one that has me scratching my head is the collapsible steering column. Some of the bolt on solutions would be the creative R+P or a Red9 front end. Just wondering if you need to meet this requirement and if so, how do you plan to meet it?
Cheers
Stuart

[VRSenator065]

Hmm, the polished timber top should finish it off just right. I've had a read through your posts, but i haven't seen any mention of your front end/steering. I am putting in a larger motor and hence will need to upgrade things to be able to get it engineered. The one that has me scratching my head is the collapsible steering column. Some of the bolt on solutions would be the creative R+P or a Red9 front end. Just wondering if you need to meet this requirement and if so, how do you plan to meet it?
Cheers
Stuart

I am having designed a full custom double-wishbone coil-over suspension, with rack and pinion power steering and an anti-roll bar. I am converting the rear to coil-over of my own design (in consultation with the engineer), both being Coilover lets us tune the spring rates front/rear, and ride height. It will have 4 wheel power-assisted brakes. My engineer hasn't specified a collapsible steering column, instead, I am using the column that comes with the CE rack and pinion conversion that I bought off them separately. I only went for that for aesthetics to be honest.

On a side fun note, I have just added a small milling machine to my home workshop. It just gives me the next level capability wise of making my own stuff instead of paying someone else. Yesterday I finished my first job, machining up one of the lock bolts for the rock n roll bed

[MisterPig]

Your suspension sounds great, (sounds like a diy red 9 setup)(wanna make two sets?) . Does the engineer require any testing of the suspension? Test driving on a track? xray of welds?
I haven't spoken to an engineer yet, I will be approaching one once my panel work is complete (not far off now), but i have lots of questions for him when we meet.
The collapsible steering column was a requirement IF you kept the original steering column. The collapsible part in this instance isn't a telescopic collapse, it is a part of the steering column that can break apart in an accident. The later models have a rubber disk at the bottom of the shaft which will break apart in a crash. Having a uni joint in line with the steering column also works. When the steering column can break apart, it reduces the chance of the driver being pinned in the kombi in an accident.
Re- your milling machine (nice work), yep I've got a lathe and a mill/drill as well. Its great being able to say, "I need something to do this" and you can just go off and make it rather than trying to make a compromise with what you can buy off the shelf.

[VRSenator065]

Yea I looked at the Red9, but IMO it's good but a bit of a compromise in a few areas, this way its IMO about the best it can be. And then combined with a full tub job right out to the doors gives full clearance in full bump and steer in all conditions. The engineer I am using has an offshoot business that fabricates various racecar chassis etc. They are making mine so he is a fully ticketed tig welder/fabricator, the welds and work they do is seriously so impressive. We haven't spoken about physical testing, I had to do all of that with the Senator, so I know what to expect if we do. A big thing I learned with the last build is that there are subtle differences in what one engineer will pass and another won't. It's also quite different from state to state. SA for example is the only mainland state where it's legal in any way to engineer a 454 ci V8 into a 1300kg Commodore. All the other states have adopted a weight/capacity limit. Being able to fabricate my own parts and come up with my own solutions to issues is one of the most fun and satisfying parts of a build I think

[VRSenator065]

And this is why I trust mission-critical welding to those that know what they are doing

[VRSenator065]

And it's back off for paint. Spent some time with Dan today and think we have nutted out the front tubbing so it looks as factory as possible. Not sure how long this will take, but it all seems to be coming together.

[MID WEST DUBBER]

That’s looking great, I bet you are happy to be pushing forward

[warb]

tidy